Crockett & Jones Molton

The 336 is a mainline last, with a wide square toe and increased toe depth. With its wider forefoot, it offers a generous fit across the forefoot. The 336 only featured in the collection for a short time. Today, it is only used for one model, the Molton, a square-toed chukka boot, an alternative to the more popular Chiltern. One feature that seems to follow the 336 is the use of a notched storm belt, which is not mandatory but is certainly a complementary detail.

The chukka boot is known worldwide after becoming James Bond’s signature style, and is now available in black raw suede with Dainite rubber soles. Raw suede is a material that wears with use. Over time it takes on a rugged, worn appearance, making it the most casual material in the collection. If left untreated it will lighten and continue to become rougher to the eye and touch. However, raw suede benefits from being coated with dubbin every year to maintain its water resistance. Applying dubbin also darkens the leather and reduces its roughness, giving it a fresher look.

The Chukka boot has both a sporting and military heritage. A Chukka boot (or desert boot) is constructed from three pieces of upper material—the inner quarter, outer quarter, and vamp—with a low-cut (but above the ankle) leg and two or three eyelets. In contrast, a Derby boot is a fully lined, high-cut, more substantial boot, with variations similar to a Derby shoe. Chukka boots are generally considered unlined, although lined versions do exist and are often considered the most comfortable of all styles.